The northern west coast of Lanzarote is characterised by the Famara cliffs, which hang over 500 metres above the sea and which we took a closer look at in the last blog 5.4. If you imagine the island as a turtle marching up to Europe, the northern part represents the turtle's head and the south-west coast the - significantly larger - turtle's shell. This part stretches from the surfing town of Famara down to the southern tip at Papagayo Beach. It is the coast facing the open Atlantic and therefore not surprising that it is the wilder and consequently less touristy side than the east coast that faces Africa. You will also look in vain for large sandy beaches here, with the really large Famara Beach being the exception to the rule. In addition to the roaring surf, this side is characterised by the Timanfaya Nature Park. Here, dozens of volcanoes rise in a rough line in the direction of the turtle's march. Many of them are worth seeing, but the guided tour of the Islote de Hilario in the Montañas del Fuego, the Fire Mountains, is an absolute must. A guided tour exclusively in a 50-seater bus was a no-go for us in the beginning. After passing through the visitor centre a few kilometres to the north, however, our curiosity is definitely piqued. Here, the formation of the island, the mechanism of the volcanoes and their significance for humans, animals and flora are vividly presented in a free museum. It is already afternoon and the light is gradually improving. On arrival at the foot of the Fire Mountains, we are first asked to pay. A board announces a 45-minute wait before you even get to the Islote car park. We drive anyway, today we are tourists. Mass tourists! The drive through a huge lava field is impressive. After the second crest, we see what we really didn't want to see. A queue of cars several hundred metres long leading up to our destination. We're probably like you today, wobbling down the last crest before the chairlift and then finding a long queue in front of you. For you it's downhill to the lift, for us it's uphill to the car park.
We practise patience. We fold in our rear-view mirrors to make it easier for the coaches to pass us. Not only do they drive down quickly, but they also drive past us on the left without queuing at the back. No, we're not annoyed, because we'd rather wait 45 minutes in a cool Unimog than sit in a large bus without waiting. After the first long queue, there is another short one and finally we are in the car park. The big ones are asked to go right to the top, quite crooked, but with enough space to manoeuvre. A quick change of vehicles and the bus tour can begin. Sitting on the right is recommended on social media and so we get two seats on the ‘better’ side behind immaculately cleaned windows. This is of course important if you are only allowed to take photos from the bus.
Islote de Hilario: What another world, only the camels seem familiar to us
Over the next forty minutes, we disappear into the world of volcanoes. Our bus winds its way along the narrow circular route in an anti-clockwise direction as if on a rollercoaster ride. Sometimes on a hilltop with far-reaching views and then again in a depression deep in the volcanic rock. The history of the formation and special features of each location are provided on tape in three languages and we keep jumping up from our seats to take photos of the opposite side. Of course, it's a shame that we can't even get out of the car here, but it's understandable, because nature is still untouched here, every stone seems to have been lying as it is for three hundred years. Another reason why tourists are not allowed to walk around freely here is demonstrated to us in an impressive way at the end of the tour. The earth here is still seething hot right below the surface, so that dry grass in a small pit ignites within a few seconds and water poured into small openings immediately shoots up into the sky as water vapour. Temperatures of several hundred degrees Celsius are measured here. In the restaurant kitchen, chickens sizzle on a natural grill fuelled exclusively by geothermal energy. A blast!
Another highlight in the volcanic area is the ascent of the Caldera Blanca. As mentioned, freedom of movement in this national park is quite restricted for nature conservation and geothermal reasons. All the more reason for us to look forward to the opportunity to climb Caldera Blanca. It is still dark when we throw on our hiking gear, spread sandwiches and fill our rucksacks with enough drinking water and fruits. The path up to the crater first takes about half an hour through a monstrous lava field. Until now, I thought that only a tropical jungle was as good as impenetrable. Today I know better! A lava field with its jagged rocks is probably just as difficult. It's possible without a machete, but without the hiking trail it would be impossible to make any real progress here. We pass caves that we recognise as side vents of the volcano. And finally we climb up to the crater rim, which is one of the largest on the island with a diameter of over a kilometre. In total, we cover well over 400 metres in altitude and a distance of around twelve kilometres today. The view from the very top compensates for all the exertion and confirms once again that it was a good choice to spend this winter on Lanzarote.
above: The Caldera Blanca in soft limestone white. In the foreground the Montana Caldereta
bottom left: Montana Caldereta seen from the Caldera Blanca
bottom right: The largest crater on the island with a diameter of over 1,000 metres
We are impressed by our volcano experience and look for further opportunities to explore the Timanfaya area. However, it is not quite so easy to move around freely here, as the roads in the centre of this protected area are literally fenced off to prevent escapades by the masses of tourists. There is hardly a small parking bay that is free during the day and any junctions are usually locked with chains or clearly marked with signs. It's clear that we don't give up so quickly and eventually find what we're looking for. It is also evident that we are no longer in the Timanfaya nature reserve, but the lava field where we will spend the night is no less attractive. We have just come from circling the Caldera Colorada, which is already lit up in bright red on the satellite image. We are probably no longer on the moon here, we are already on Mars. Ferrous rock on the south-eastern side gives this volcano its colourful dress and also its name. The bomba, i.e. the plug that a volcano spews into the sky with full force when it erupts, can be seen particularly well at Colorada and only a short distance from the crater. But back to the night camp north of Masdache with a view of the Volcan de Juan Bello. In addition to quite a lot of skilfully shaped lava, there are also many winegrowers in this region. The vines are carefully tended individually in the lee of a hand-worked stone semicircle. The very porous lava is an excellent water reservoir, giving the vines a chance to thrive on this dry island. I don't need to tell you that this wine also tastes excellent. Especially when you taste it in the local ambience in the middle of a black lava field, it's a real treat.
above: Caldera Colorada, a volcano, like on Mars
below: Overnight stay in a lava field on the edge of the national park
below: Caldera de los Cuervos, equally worth seeing
But now it's time to get back to the west coast and explore it all the way to the southern tip. South of Famara lies San Juan Beach. This is probably a little insider tip for all those who want to escape the surfing hustle and bustle but are not afraid of the big waves. The overlander insider tip, however, is located on the coast beyond, between San Juan and Caleta de Caballo. We still don't know why this ‘horse bay’ is called that, but it seems extremely quiet and relaxed in comparison. This fishing village also shines in clean white, as do all the villages on Lanzarote. This is supposedly thanks to the master of the art, Manrique, who implemented a tasteful philosophy here and managed to avoid both building sins and architectural excesses. The aforementioned six to eight kilometres of coastline are presumably also a nature reserve, but not consistently designated as such. It's not easy to know for sure whether driving or standing is permitted here, so let's just follow the locals, who are also eager to show their faces here.
Top left: Our windbreak, bought especially for Lanzarote, finally comes into use
above right: View to the north with the Famara cliffs in the background
The beach is rocky and the usual onshore winds from the north can splash the spray right up to the vehicle. However, the scenery with the small volcanoes in the background and the Famara Massif in the distance is so impressive that we are happily staying here for a few days. The E-Fatis are also used once again and prove their worth on this partly stony, partly sandy surface. When the winds aren't too strong in the evening, we have a juicy steak prepared in the outdoor kitchen and enjoy it while watching the fantastic sunset all evenings.
The peninsula right next to Caleta de Caballo also offers us pounding and deafening surf. Once again, the Unimog allows us to drive a few hundred metres further than the rest of our motorhome friends. Hotel sleepers may find it hard to understand how overlanders can find peace and quiet on such wild cliffs. Even for us, it is difficult to explain why we can fall asleep like angels despite the constant noise, crashing waves and roaring wind. It is probably the rhythm of nature, the regularity of the sound waves that ultimately distinguishes it from the noise of a 40-tonne articulated lorry in the Gottard Tunnel.
Roaring south-west coast near Caleta de Caballo
In our bliss, we stroll to the nearby La Santa Hotel and Sports Complex today, because there is supposed to be a shopping opportunity there. Hundreds of vehicles are parked outside the gates of this mega complex, whose name is probably not derived from the Christmassy Santa, but rather from the health-related Santé. We enquire about the supermarket at the main entrance to the open concrete castle and are brusquely put in our place by a brash Securitas. If we hadn't asked him, we would have got into the complex through one of the freely accessible alleyways without any problem and would certainly have found the market soon. However, the clerk has probably forgotten who pays his wages and whistles at us as unwanted intruders to such an extent that we prefer to spend our euros elsewhere without discussion. If the La Santa rules catch on and soon everyone who wants to buy vegetables will have to show a passport, then we will probably become self-sufficient at some point.
A few days later, in the middle of our Timanfaya exploration, we find another impressive FRAME overnighting spot above the Laja del Sol. The Senderos hiking route runs along the coast here and guarantees a typical Lanzarote west coast spectacle of roaring surf on the black lava rocks. The path down to the cliff is a bit strenuous, but what's a Unimog for? Here too, apart from two or three hikers a day, we are completely on our own.
South of the national park, there are other sights and photographic features that you should not miss during an extended stay in Lanzarote. Let's start with the Charco Verde or Charco de los Clicos, as it is also known. It is probably one of the most photographed locations on this Canary Island and captivates with its colourful constellation of red earth, the green volcanic lake and the blue and white foaming Atlantic Ocean.
The volcano that sank into the sea at El Golfo now forms a lagoon behind the black Sandy Beach. Thanks to the algae, it stands out between the bizarre rock structures and the black sand in a striking green colour. The photographer tries his luck in the late afternoon, when the sun finally peeps over the crater rim and the crowds of tourists hopefully die down a little. We only managed to avoid the crowds on our second attempt.
Los Hervideros is just a few kilometres further south. An ingenious place for all those who are not travelling in a Unimog but still want to stand very close to the roaring surf. Safe paths lead from the large car park down into the cliffs, where the surf hits with full force below and next to you without you (normally) getting wet. Extremely impressive and, if it's the end of the day, with a touch of pink romance. Both the Charco de los Clicos and Los Hervideros are easily accessible and free of charge, which is not the case with all tourist attractions on Lanzarote.
Our journey takes us further south, because since we bought handmade organic salt in the Salina de los Cocoteros, my head chef has also made a plea to visit the largest salt works on the island, the one in Janubio. The emergency supplies we brought from Switzerland are gradually dwindling and there is room for souvenirs and gifts that we can't (easily) get at home. There's a great car park north of the Janubio lagoon for standard campers, while four-wheel-vehicles also enjoy the much smaller car park to the south. Once again we find ourselves at a wildly foaming surf, where the waves crash against the rocks in front of us and yet again offer us a spectacle that we could watch for hours. Right next to it is a totally calm and no less fascinating deep black sandy beach, the likes of which we haven't seen since Hawaii. The rock is interspersed with green olivine, giving the sand a mysterious lustre. The lagoon behind it shimmers in a vibrant hunter green, as does the charco a little further north. Once again, we wait for the right light to be able to properly showcase the marvellous surroundings. It doesn't take long for the photo drone to take off on its first reconnaissance flight. We only find out much later on the computer whether and what the result will be. It is simply impossible to capture the exact image structure, colours and contrasts in real time during the shoot. So the anticipation remains until the footage is finally downloaded.
above: Black beach next to the Salinas
below: A bird's eye view of the Salinas de Janubio
We soon reach the southern tip of Lanzarote. The village of Playa Blanca forms the touristic end of the island. From here, we plan to cross over to Fuerteventura a little later. The neighbouring island is barely ten kilometres away. We decide to skip the small town and drive to the far end to Playa Papagayo. We were expecting to be charged three euros at the entrance to another national park. However, the payment point is already closed at 4 pm, but the gates are still wide open. We drive along the bumpy track to the official car park, where - surprise surprise - we come across around a hundred other motorists. After settling into a flat corner, we explore what is described as one of the most beautiful beaches on Lanzarote. The crowds aren't really our thing, but the beaches are. However, the actual Papagayo Beach is very Rimini-like during the day, which means that there is one beach towel after another. This is a little surprising, as the beaches next to it are just as beautiful but much less frequented. Presumably a see-and-be-seen beach. We hope to find our dream beach in Fuerteventura and currently prefer to explore the south coast by fatbike!
Arrived in the south: the fantastic beaches of Papagayo
Next blog: 5.6 La Graciosa, the graceful of the north
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